It is our specialized preventative maintenance program that will keep your equipment running efficiently, effectively, and safely. We offer our maintenance programs to both residential and commercial customers throughout Orlando area. Protect your investment and call us for more information about this affordable program.
Typically, filters should be replaced or cleaned once every three to six months depending on how many pets and people are in the building. Some units are equipped with permanent filters. Disposal filters should be replaced with filters of like type and size as the original filter.
To help consumers make informed choices, the U.S. government requires an efficiency rating of all air conditioning and heating equipment. The rating is meant to reflect the percentage of energy used efficiently. A high rating indicates high efficiency. There are various names for the efficiency ratings of varying types of equipment. Air conditioning equipment is rated by the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating, or SEER. Heat pump equipment is rated by the Heating Seasonal Performance Factor, or HSPF. Gas furnaces are rated according to their Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, or AFUE.
When the thermostat is set to “auto,” the fan operates only when the temperature requires it. This is the most used setting. However, there are advantages to using the “on” setting. First of all, the air in the house is constantly filtered through the unit’s air filter. Secondly, the constantly circulating air results in an even temperature throughout the house. However, the “on” position will result in higher humidity since air is being blown over wet coils after the condenser shuts off. For Southwest Florida, the “auto” position will yield the driest home.
Yes. However, we recommend that plants be no closer than 18 inches from the unit. This allows plenty of room for air circulation in and out of the unit. Without this room for air circulation, the unit could overheat, resulting in a premature need for service.
It is a good idea to replace the entire system when an air handler or condenser needs to be replaced. The efficiency rating is based on the entire system. To gain the maximum benefit of new, highly efficient technology, the entire system should be replaced together. This ensures the system is reliable and achieving its true efficiency rating.
Many variables are considered in determining the size system needed , such as size of the house, climate at the location, the number and type of windows, insulation of the house, number of people in the house, etc. But, as a rule of thumb you can expect to need at least 1 ton per 600 sq.ft.
There are several things that can cause frost on your coil and/or reduced air flow. Anything that restricts the airflow through the inside unit will cause frost. As the frost builds up on the coil, the airflow becomes more and more restricted making the condition worse. When the frost is also on the outside pipes next to the compressor, you have a situation where damage to the compressor can occur.
The following test is the most important test you can performed on a system that is running but not cooling enough. This test can help determine if your system is low on freon or will uncover several other problems that can cause your system to malfunction. It will tell a lot about what is wrong with the system. Start by inserting a stem type thermometer in the air supply duct, record the temperature. Now take the temperature of the air entering the return air duct. Subtract the supply temperature from the return temperature. The temperature difference should be 17 to 22 degrees. Make sure there is no frost on the coil before performing this test. A dirty cooling coil is a common cause of “Not Enough Cooling or “Freezing Up” of the system.
You can check to see if the coil is dirty by removing the filter and looking at the underside of the coil with a flashlight.Sometimes a mirror will help you see under the coil. You can determine if the blower motor is kicking off on overload by setting the thermostat to “fan=ON” and listening to the blower run. If the motor kicks off after a while, then you have a bad motor. It may take a half-hour or more before the motor overheats and knocks on overload. In addition, you can feel the body of the motor to see if it is extremely hot. Be careful when you touch the motor as they get very hot. Also, turn the power to the unit off before performing this test.
If you do not see ice build-up on the larger copper tubing (covered with a black, sponge insulation)when you run your system, then you probably have a clogged drain line. A clogged drain line is usually caused by algae build-up inside the drain line. And yes, there is something you can do to prevent this condition. Algae is a living plant and will grow in your drain line until it clogs the line. The air handler provides a cool, damp environment for development of molds and mildew and if left untreated these growths can spread into your ductwork. If only moderate to light buildup is present then there are chemical disinfectants specifically designed for use in air handlers that will kill the existing mold and mildew and control new growth. These disinfectants are safe and very effective and are applied by simply spraying into the filter intake and by placing “Algae Strips” directly in the drain pan. If the coil has mold or mildew present then it also should be treated. Make sure that the face of the cooling or evaporator coil is clean so that air can pass through freely.
If some cooling is taking place but not enough, then the chances are that the system is low on freon. The only reason a system would need freon is because the freon leaked out. If the leak is not sealed before recharging with freon, the freon will eventually leak out again. Leak repairs are expensive so if it’s a small leak it may be more cost effective to recharge the system every two or three years. Freon recharging is not a do-it-yourself job. As per federal law (EPA), only people certified to handle refrigerant (freon) are allowed to recharge an air conditioning system.
Visually check the coil of the outside unit to make sure that it is not excessively dirty or blocked. If the coil is dirty you can flush it with a garden hose. Keep water clear of electricals.
If the fan on the outside unit is running but you do not hear the sound of the compressor running , then the compressor is malfunctioning. This would be a very serious problem requiring an a/c contractor.
If you have an air return duct in a hot area such as an attic or garage, make sure that this duct is not broken, split, or disconnected and sucking in hot air.
Tripped A/C breaker: Check this first. Find the breaker for the air conditioner. Turn it completely “off” even if it appears to be “off”, then turn it back on again. If it trips again, leave it alone and call your contractor. Thermostat wiring broken: Check the thermostat wires by the outside unit. This is the small cable with small wires going into the outside unit. Many times I have seen this cable broken or cut by lawn mowers or kids playing, or even by the dog.
The most common reason that a system will not run is because of a loss of power. In most every situation an air conditioning system is protected electrically by a breaker or fuse which is located somewhere in the power supply lines upstream from both the air handler and condenser units. This breaker is designed to provide over current protection and prevent electrical damage to your equipment. Find this breaker, turn it completely “off” even if it appears to be “off”, then turn it back on again. If it trips again, leave it alone and call your contractor. The second most common reason for a system not to respond when called for, is problems in the low voltage (24v) control circuit. This circuit is comprised of the controllers and relays that send signals to the components in your system to perform specific functions like heating, cooling and fan only. The most common problems are found in the thermostat connections and with failure of the transformer. You can change your thermostat yourself in most cases because the various wires coming to your thermostat are color coded and you simply hook up the appropriate color wire to
the terminal for that color on the thermostat